Warwick
My trip to Warwick left basically nothing to be desired. It was much less touristy than Rye, the people were friendly and outgoing, my hotel room cost only 35 pounds per night (compared to the 85 I paid in Rye!), and I was surrounded everywhere by fabulous medeivel, Tudor, and Georgian architecture. Too bad I only had one day here, but I did absolutely make the most of it.
First order of business was Warwick Castle, which everyone agrees in England's finest medieval castle. The Earls of Warwick have inhabited the castle for most of the past 1000 years, only recently selling the whole thing to Tussaud's. But the key is that it is very intact and very unchanged. The ramparts have the classic arrow slits and special funnel-type things for pouring burning oil down on attackers. The castle gate has two vertical gates, just like in storybooks, and originally included a drawbridge over the moat. I was standing outside when the castle opened at 10:00 am, and I spent a magical 10-15 minutes almost competely alone in the castle before other tourists joined me.
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Of course I went straight for the dungeon after I got by bearings. It's a pretty nasty affair, I doubt that anyone every escaped from this place.
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Here is a shot of the castle grounds from the south wall, I think. The apartments are where the Earl's and such lived, it's quite fancy and elegant. The great hall is just fabulous, a huge open room with large fireplaces and suits of armor all over.
I made an OK panorama of the castle grounds, click here if you want to try it out (5mb download, requires Quicktime.
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Now, Warwick was not to be outdone by Rye when it came to a place to stay. I chose the fabulous Tudor Inn, a 1472 timbered building outside the town gates on the road to Stratford-On-Avon. This place was right out of Shakespeare. I stayed in a room high up on the 3rd floor, at the top of a narrow staircase overlooking the dining room you see at left. The door to my room was about 1 meter high--maybe that's why it only cost 35 pounds for the night! The suits of armor outside my bedroom door were 100% authentic stuff left over from the middle ages. What a gas!
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Here is the Beauchamp Chapel in the Collegiate Church of St. Mary. It is full of dead Earl's, many of whom were very important in English history at different times. A special treat at the Church was going up to the top of the tower to look around. I paid a pound to the cashier in the church, who proceeded to pick up an enormous key and take me outside to the tower door. She asked me if I thought I could climb the 150 steps to the top OK, then left me alone. It was really a pleasure--completely alone in this great old tower. |
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